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Sanur: Kota Penuh Misteri

SANUR: KOTA PENUH MISTERI

Sejak tahun 1970, selain terkenal sebagai kawasan wisata di mana Le Mayeur sang pelukis kelas dunia membangun museum di pantainya yang berpasir putih, Sanur juga dikenal sebagai gudangnya orang-orang sakti.

Di seluruh Bali keangkeran nama Sanur yang di tahun 60an hanya bisa dicapai dengan dokar dari arah Denpasar, masih menggema hingga saat ini.

“Saat itu, saya melihat sendiri bagaimana dukun-dukun di Sanur mengadu kesaktiannya di pertigaan Renon yang berjarak hanya sekitar 3 km dari pusat kampung,” tutur Made Sadra, 79 tahun, sesepuh kampung Renon yang bertetangga dengan Sanur.

Saat itu, ada sekitar lusinan dukun sakti kondang di Sanur yang menyebar ilmu kadigjayan, berupa leak atau kekebalan. Dan biasanya, di bulan ke enam perhitungan Bali, mereka akan menjajal kesaktiannya dengan mengadu ilmu yang dikuasainya di persawahan Renon. Kala itu, mereka datang dari seluruh Bali. Ada yang datang dari Manggis, Penebel, bahkan ada juga yang datang dari Jagaraga, Buleleng.

“Tetapi, yang selalu menang adalah dukun sakti dari Sanur. Hal ini ditandai dengan matinya musuh-musuh mereka satu-persatu,” imbuh Sadra.

Keangkeran serta kewingitan itu sampai sekarang masih terasa. Bahkan, tak lengkap rasanya jika membicarakan Sanur hanya berkisar pada Hotel Bali Beach yang berlantai 10, atau pantai pasir putih dengan ombaknya yang tenang tanpa mengungkapkan berbagai keangkeran di seputarnya. Dan salah satunya Hotel Bali Beach yang pernah tebakar di seputar tahun 90-an saat terjadi kebakaran, salah satu kamar di lantai 5 sama sekali tidak terjilat api.

“Walau api melalap hotel itu selama delapan jam lebih, tetapi kamar itu sama sekali tidak tersentuh. Bahkan, bau asap tak sedikitpun terasa,” papar Sadra yang beberapa hari setelah kebakaran sempat menyambangi kamar yang angker itu.

Konon, Ratu Laut Selatan, sebagaimana mitos Nyi Roro Kidul di dalam kebudayaan Jawa juga dikenal di Sanur. Apalagi, beberapa kamar hotel yang berdiri anggun di tepian pantai itu menghadap ke arah selatan. Yang jelas, sampai sekarang kamar itu tidak pernah dijual kepada wisatawan. Hanya di malam Jum’at Kliwon, kamar itu sengaja diberi kembang setaman dan jajan pasar sebagaimana yang biasa dilakukan oleh masyarakat Jawa.

Dan yang paling aneh, sejak adanya kamar yang selamat dari kebakaran, hotel itu tak pernah sepi dari pengunjung. Bahkan. di saat Bali sedang sepi, Bali Beach Hotel mampu menyedot pengunjung sampai dengan 70%. Konon, itu adalah salah satu daya tarik yang terpancar dari kamar yang kini dikeramatkan!

“Saya sendiri pernah melihat, di bawah pohon Camplung di depan hotel ada tak kurang dari 50 penari berselendang warna merah jambu mengitari pohon itu. Padahal, waktu baru menunjukkan pukul 16.00. Sedangkan pertunjukkan tarian biasa dilaksanakan sekitar pukul 20.00,” tutur Wayan Kerti, 51, penjaga jukung sewaan di tempat itu.

Dan kejadian itu tidak berlangsung hanya sekali dua kali. Pokoknya, menjelang punama, para penari yang dipercayai sebagai dayang-dayang Putri Laut Selatan pasti mementaskan tarian sakral di bawah pohon Camplung yang tingginya mencapai 20 meter itu. Ternyata, bukan hanya orang yang kuat spiritualnya saja yang bisa menyaksikan tarian magis itu, buktinya, beberapa di antara turis melaporkan bahwa mereka melihat tarian gemulai yang ditarikan 50 penari berselendang merah jambu itu. Begitulah Sanur, seluruh daratannya seakan menyimpan jutaan misteri!

Sebut saja, misalnya pura dalem Sanur yang berlokasi di Banjar Medura. Satu banjar yang di masa lampau konon dihuni oleh mayoritas keturunan dari Madura. Walau siang, tapi, pura yang di bagian utaranya dinaungi pohon beringin setinggi 30 meter itu sering membuat mereka yang percaya ciut nyalinya. Sama seperti yang terjadi di Hotel Bali Beach yang sering dijadikan ajang pementasan oleh 50 bidadari berselendang warna merah jambu, di bagian timur pura dalem itu yang persis di tepian jalan jurusan Semawang, Bet Ngandang maupun Blanjong, sering tampak penari janger dan penari joged mempertontonkan kebolehannya.

“Biasanya, menjelang kajeng kliwon pasti ada tarian joged tak jauh dari pura dalem itu. Semua orang yang kuat bathinnya bisa menyaksikan, sebab acaranya berlangsung sebelum lewat tengah malam. Sedang orang awam, tidak melihat atau mendengar apapun di tempat itu,” ini penuturan Ketut Kanta, 49, yang berulang kali sempat memergoki pentas joged bumbung di pura dalem itu.

Menurut masyarakat setempat, yang menari adalah para calon leak yang akan mengadu kedigjayaannya selewat tengah malam. “Kalau ada yang nekat, biasanya mereka akan membubarkan pentas itu sambil meminta imbalan ala kadarnya. Bisa berupa batu atau kembang hiasan joged bumbung,” ungkap Kanta lagi.

Dia bahkan mengaku, sekitar 5 tahun lalu dirinya sempat diberikan setangkai kembang cempaka oleh salah seorang penari yang wajahnya mirip Cici Paramida.

“Sejak diberi kembang itu, saya selalu jadi incaran janda kaya tetapi cantik. Sampai- sampai istri saya minta cerai gara-gara itu. Akhirnya, setelah jera saya buang kembang itu di tempat sang penari biasa pentas,” lanjutnya Iagi.

Setelah setahun kalang kabut dan rumah tangganya kacau barulah ia bisa terbebas dari kejaran para janda kaya. “Rupanya, kembang cempaka pemberian sang penari itu menyebabkan saya jadi punya daya tarik yang tersendiri,” sambungnya.

Oleh karena itu jangan heran, pada malam-malam tertentu, kita akan melihat antrian orang di sekitar tempat joged bumbung mentas untuk sekedar mencari keberkahan. Sebagaimana pengakuan Made Sudi, 41, yang pernah mendapatkan batu berwarna coklat usal menonton joget bumbung di tempat itu. Dan apa yang terjadi setelah itu? Seminggu kemudian, ia diangkat sebagai manajer pemasaran di perusahaan asuransi tempatnya bekerja. Padahal, selama sepuluh tahun ia hanya bertugas mengutip uang dari para nasabah. Lain tidak. Dengan kata lain, jabatan itu merupakan suatu karunia yang mungkin tak pernah diimpikannya.

Sejak itu, tiap saat, ia akan menyempatkan diri untuk singgah di tempat itu untuk sekadar memanjatkan puji syukur. Selain hampir seluruh masyarakat Bali menganggap letak pura dalem Sanur amat strategis, bangunan ini juga berada di jalan yang membujur dari arah utara ke selatan. Suatu tempat yang diyakini sangat disenangi oleh gaib.

“Ketika sekitar pukul 19.00 lewat di tempat itu, saya bahkan melihat ada bentangan kain putih sepanjang lima puluh meter bergerak-gerak seperti ditiup angin di pagar bagian timur,” papar Nyoman Sarya, 70 tahun, sesepuh yang mukim di Sanur.

Menurutnya, kain putih yang bergerak-gerak diterpa angin menandakan ada orang sakti yang sedang merapal ilmu dan menguji muridnya di sekitar tempat itu. Dan sebagai nelayan, Nyoman Sarya tak menghiraukan apa yang dilihatnya. Apalagi ingin meminta sekadar upah. Sejak kejadian itu, selama tiga hari ia tak berani ke luar saat menjelang senja. “Rasanya, kain putih itu ingin melibas saya. Bahkan, kain itu seperti punya jiwa dan mendendam,” sambungnya lagi.

Itulah kenyataan yang terjadi di Sanur. Walau telah menjadi perkampungan internasional, tetapi tetap menyimpan berbagai keanehan yang tak bisa dibedah dengan akal sehat manusia. ©️KyaiPamungkas

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